Pipe restoration can be broken down into three basic subjects: cleaning, refinishing, and repair.
Let's discuss cleaning first, since you are probably familiar with it. Most shops have a buffing wheel for polishing bits and bowls. If your shop doesn't have one you're not providing full service to our customer. You can make a good buffer for about $50 from a used 1/4 hp. washing machine motor, and parts from a hardware store. You can prevent your shop from filling with dust by adding a vent hood made from plywood (or sheet metal) and a small shop vacuum. I highly recommend Sears All-Purpose buffing compound for polishing both bits and it's the best on the market -- bar none!
A difficult part of buffing stems is cleaning the oxidation that forms near the lip. Buff too hard and you’ll round the lip (perhaps even burning the vulcanite). Use a sharp knife to lightly scrape off the heavy oxidation that forms near the lip, then buff as usual. You will save wear and tear on bits this way. You can prevent the bit from rapidly oxidizing by buffing the polished bit with a light coat of carnauba wax.
I'll start by posting a few questions I answered in another thread:
1. Looking at reamers, it seems like both the senior and the Castleford are a good idea. The downside to the senior is the bottom of the bowl does not get worked properly, and the Castleford only works for standard shaped bowls, but works great for the bottom.
2. The best method to remove old varnish or wax. I think for smooth pipes, sanding, but what about rusticated pipes?
3. The best way to clean bits? TOOTHPASTE. If the bit is as green as these letters, take a little drop of metal polish (I use brasso) and mix it with the same amount of toothpaste you usually use to brush your teeth.
4. If you had to think of a cost effective newb kit that you would put together, what specific products would you use or buy? Brasso, cheap white toothpaste, good pipe cleaners (this is one area you should NEVER skimp.Click http://www.wlpipeline.com to get more pipe information.